The Wine Savant

September 23, 2013
For a decade, Steinberger wrote thoughtfully about wine for Slate.com. In the 11 essays presented here, Steinberger offers advice and opinions on every aspect of wine and its consumption, from the problems of being perceived as a snob (a case not helped by his constant use of the term oenophilia), to the drawbacks of screw tops, to the perils of Chardonnay. He is somewhere between bitter and perplexed when lamenting vino’s inability to match beer in terms of popularity, but happily proclaims that “a truly golden age of California winemaking may be at hand.” Interspersed throughout the chapters is an array of useful lists, such as “tips for having a happy wine experience in a restaurant,” “names to know in Burgundy,” and “fifty of the world’s great $25 and under wines.” In an intriguing chapter on the interplay of wine and fine dining, Steinberger points out that many aficionados who eat at restaurants are so well versed in wine these days that they no longer really need a sommelier—or any advice at all. Norton is surely hoping that there are many people who still do.

Starred review from December 1, 2013
Informative, easily digested how-to guide to enjoying modern wines. Men's Journal wine columnist Steinberger (Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine and the End of France, 2009) offers historical, practical and enjoyable advice on the current wine landscape. From the five elements that create a fine wine to the five must-have books on wine (other than this one) to lists of the best brands of reds and whites, the author's assistance flows readily from the page to readers. He examines the Parker method of critiquing wine and offers his own methodology so readers can learn how to judge for themselves what constitutes a good bottle. Do you need guidance on how to store wine, what wines pair well with what food, or the definitions of "corked" or "spoofulated"? Steinberger delivers the answers. Unafraid to state his opinions on sauvignon blanc or California chardonnay, the author backs his dislike with solid reasons and then proceeds to offer readers better alternatives to his hated wines. His knowledge is not limited to northern European or California wines, as he examines the differences among 10 rising stars in the wine world. Aware that money might play a factor in one's ability to purchase a good Burgundy, riesling or Vouvray, Steinberger provides a list of "Fifty of the World's Great $25 and Under Wines," which itself makes the book worthy of shelf space. The author's enthusiasm for wine is infectious, and his desire to lead readers to the best of the best is irresistible. With his lists in hand, those new to the world of viticulture and vintners, as well as practiced oenophiles, will gain invaluable assistance as they peruse the multitude of available possibilities. Educational, entertaining information on navigating the world of wines.

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November 15, 2013

In his latest book, Steinberger (Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France) draws from his ten years as a wine columnist for Slate to offer insight into wine appreciation. He makes it clear that despite his friendships and connections in the industry, he is unafraid to state plainly his views on wines, wineries, wine critics, and more. At the same time, Steinberger shows an appealing candor in admitting to his own prejudices. In the course of championing particular grapes or labels, he is sure to introduce readers to some unfamiliar wines, such as Loire Valley Savennieres or New York Rieslings. While the author's opinions, wit, and honesty enliven the writing, the book is weakened for seeming more like a series of lengthy columns that have not been joined as effectively as they could be. With better links among the chapters, this work would have been a vital read. VERDICT A terrific writer hampered by a format that feels a little tossed together. Recommended for libraries where there is strong readership for materials on wine.--Peter Hepburn, Coll. of the Canyons Lib., Santa Clarita, CA

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